I tried surfing once in the gentle 1 to 2 m
waves of Waikiki beach. It was really difficult and just getting into position
to ride the waves exhausting. The biggest waves I have ever played in would be
around 3 meters and the force with which they slammed me around helpless and
out of control is hard to fathom.
GarrettMcNamara is a 45 year old professional surfer and he routinely tackles waves up
to 100 feet. IMHO this is the greatest feat of skill and courage any athlete
could demonstrate.
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