Thursday, 31 January 2013
Surfing the 100 foot wave
I tried surfing once in the gentle 1 to 2 m waves of Waikiki beach. It was really difficult and just getting into position to ride the waves exhausting. The biggest waves I have ever played in would be around 3 meters and the force with which they slammed me around helpless and out of control is hard to fathom.
GarrettMcNamara is a 45 year old professional surfer and he routinely tackles waves up to 100 feet. IMHO this is the greatest feat of skill and courage any athlete could demonstrate.